At last we reach Pheriche. 4,300m of altitude. Nestled in the heart of the Khumbu region, the tiny village is surrounded by gigantic snow-capped peaks and pristine valleys; it’s a paradise for trekkers, nature enthusiasts and explorers seeking a soulful retreat. I love this place. It never failed to amaze me every time I stop there to acclimatise for a few days. It’s a land of enchantment and spiritual allure with Ama Dablam and Cholatse towering above the dotted land.
A Spiritual Odyssey
A few meters away a poignant stop awaits me at Pheriche village, the Everest Memorial. It’s a mountain-shaped stainless steel sculpture reflecting the surrounding peaks on its surface and holding the names of those who died on both sides of Everest on the inside. As I approach, the air is somber. It carries the weight of those who had ventured into the unforgiving heights and never returned. Among the engraved names, the name of my husband who shared his passion for conquering mountains. It’s like my little shrine where I come to pray and remember.
Memories flood my mind, reminding me of the risks we took together and the laughter we shared amidst the unforgiving terrain. As I stood there, surrounded by the whispers of the wind, I feel a mix of emotions—gratitude for having known such a daring spirit, sadness for the immense void left behind, and a renewed awareness of the fragility of life.
The memorial is a poignant reminder that every step we take in these mighty mountains is both a triumph and a risk. It humbles me, making me ponder the essence of our lives and the sacrifices we made in the pursuit of our dreams.
In that moment, I carry with me the memory of the one I loved, etched in my heart like the engraved names at the memorial. This journey, and all the ones I made to Everest became more than a personal adventure—it is a tribute to all these climbers who dared to reach for the skies to see the curvature of the earth from atop the world.
A Journey of Laughter, Yaks, and Sherpa Hospitality
As I leave Pheriche village, we cross paths with trekkers on their way to Everest Base Camp. Their faces lit up with determination and excitement, each step taking them closer to their dream. We exchange encouraging nods and smiles before continuing our journey to higher altitudes. The rugged trails leading to the Gokyo Lakes turns left, heading West towards Zonglha, crossing the treacherous glacier at the Cho La Pass and all the way down to Dragnag where we stop for the night.
While gathered around the fireplace, we share tales of Sherpa legends, each more captivating than the last. As the embers crackled, I felt a sense of belonging, as if I was a part of this close-knit community. Their laughter echoed through the lodge, filling the air with joy, and I couldn’t help but join in, even if my jokes were lost in translation.
I enjoy being here surrounded by the locals, their warm smiles and genuine hospitality despite the hardships provide a captivating glimpse into their way of life. Their rich culture and traditions add depth to the landscape, making this adventure a holistic experience. To me, it’s a reminder that true richness lies in the people we meet and the indelible mark they leaves on your heart.
Embracing the Beauty of The Gokyo Lakes
Today we’re heading to Gokyo village. Along the rugged trails, the tranquil waters of the turquoise lakes mirror the towering mountains, creating an ethereal landscape that captivates the soul. Each lake holds a unique charm and we walk carefully along the muddy and slippery trails formed by the melting glacier underneath our feet.
Crossing the Ngozumpa glacier is the final endeavour before the village. This is the largest glacier recorded in the whole of the Himalayas, and there’s plenty of evidence that despite the high altitude of 4,750m, it is melting fast.
The village is tiny and looks even smaller surrounded by towering peaks. A dot in the vast expanse of the Himalayas. The connection with the mountains has always left a lasting impression on me, reminding me of the true essence of life — simplicity, friendship, and of course laughter, most of the time with the help of a few glasses of Raksi, the (very strong) traditional Nepal alcoholic spirit or cups of Chhang, my favourite fermented drink from Tibet.
In the distance, I can see the southern slopes of Cho Oyu, a majestic 8000m peak that I climbed many years ago from Tibet on my first attempt in high altitude. I sit in meditation on the lake shores. Time stands still and I feel a profound connection with the mountains and the universe, an experience that words can barely describe.
A Triumph of Endurance
Today is the day! Gokyo Ri is an easy mountain to hike up and the climb can be achieved in a few hours of steady uphill walk to the top. Altitude sickness is the only major threat to the climb, and it can leave you there, exhausted and unable to move. This unimpressive peak towering at 5,357m can cut your enthusiasm short if you ignore the signs of altitude sickness, leaving you with the only option left – walking back down.
To me, each step on this rocky trails brings a sense of liberation. I leave behind the worries of the mundane world and lose myself in the serenity of the Himalayan embrace. I call it: pressing the reset button, and I can’t help but feel humbled by nature’s grandeur.
Finally, after hours of hard work, I stand atop the majestic Gokyo Ri. The view before me is nothing short of surreal. The shimmering Gokyo Lakes glimmer like turquoise gems crimped in the valley below, reflecting the peaks that encircle them. It’s a scene straight out of a painting, and I feel like where I should be in this very moment.
I can’t help but reflect on the journey that brought me here at first place. These last few years have been a rollercoaster of emotions. But today, I realise that the mountains have a unique way of teaching life’s profound lessons – the importance of perseverance, the beauty of simplicity, and the joy of connecting with people and nature.
On top of this hill, it’s all about prayer flags fluttering in the mountain breeze, blessings of the mountain Gods and the sense of serenity to all who venture on these slopes.
Let’s Wrap it Up!
As I descend back to Lukla, the memories of this unforgettable adventure stay etched in my heart and I leave with a promise to return one day. The Himalayas have forever changed me, and I hope that through my stories and experiences, I can inspire others to embark on their own journeys of self-discovery.
Step out of your comfort zone, embrace the unexpected moments, and immerse yourself in the embrace new ventures. Don’t be afraid to create our own tales of adventure, laughter, and self-discovery. The mountains are calling, and it’s time to answer their call. Happy exploring!
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